Ford Fusion key replacement in Los Angeles

Ford Fusion keys by year

What kind of key does a Ford Fusion use?

Ford sold the Fusion in the US from the 2006 model year through 2020, and in that run the key changed shape more than once. That is why a Fusion key replacement is never one single job. A 2007 and a 2018 have almost nothing in common at the ignition except the badge on the trunk.

Our data splits the car into two generations. The first generation, internal code CD338, covers 2006 through 2012. The second, CD391, covers 2013 through 2020, and 2020 is the last US model year. Inside those two generations are four key eras you will actually run into: a plain transponder key (2006 to 2009), a remote-head key (2010 to 2012), a high-security flip key (2013 to 2016), and a smart key with push-button start (2017 to 2020).

The year-by-year table on this page lists every model year. This text is about what those rows mean when you are standing in a parking lot without a working key. One thing up front: the first-generation chip information is verified, the chip details for 2013 to 2016 are disputed between vendors, and the 2017 to 2020 details are unverified. Wherever that is the case, we say so and we confirm the exact setup by VIN instead of guessing.

If you are not sure which era you have, look at what is in your hand. A plain metal-and-plastic key with a separate remote fob points to 2006 to 2009. A key with the buttons built into the head points to 2010 to 2012. A key that folds out of a fob is the 2013 to 2016 style. A fob with no visible blade and a start button on the dash is the 2017 to 2020 style. There are exceptions, which is why the VIN matters.

2006 to 2009 Fusion: the plain PATS key

The earliest Fusions use a transponder key from the Texas 4D63 family, and the key itself is a plain one. Locks and remote are separate: the key opens doors and starts the car, and a separate fob handles the remote functions. Ford's system here is called PATS, a passive anti-theft setup, and it works the way most chip systems do. The ignition reads a small chip inside the key head, and if it does not recognize the chip, the engine may crank but will not run.

Our data describes these cars as the 40-bit era of the 4D63 family, and notes that aftermarket dual-mode 40/80-bit chips serve them. In practical terms, that means a good replacement key is available and we are not stuck hunting for one exact part. Programming is done through the OBD port. For these years our data shows no NASTF SDRM requirement, and a mechanical backup key exists.

Most of what goes wrong with these keys is simple wear. The 8-cut blades wear down until they stop turning the locks, and on high-mileage cars the ignition lock wafers wear too, so the key sticks or will not turn. Sometimes owners blame the key when the lock is the tired part, and sometimes it is the other way around. We look at both before recommending anything.

The other classic problem here is the hardware-store copy. A copy cut without a transponder chip will often open the doors fine and then refuse to start the engine, and the PATS light flashes at you. That is not a bad cut. The car simply has no chip to read. If a copy like that is all you have, it is a good reminder that you may effectively have no working key at all.

2010 to 2012 Fusion: the remote-head key

With the refresh, Ford moved to a remote-head key: the lock and unlock buttons sit in the key head itself, so there is one piece to carry instead of two. The chip family is still 4D63, and programming is still through the OBD port. Our data also shows the original key is the preferred starting point for a duplicate, and an all-keys-lost situation is possible.

One honest caveat: catalogs disagree on whether these years use a 40-bit or an 80-bit version of the 4D63. Dual-mode chips cover either, which is how the disagreement gets handled in practice. It is not something that should worry you as an owner, but it is a good example of why we do not trust a catalog line alone and prefer to confirm the setup on the actual car.

The problems on these keys are different from the earlier ones. Remote-head shells crack, rubber buttons wear through, and the battery in the key dies. Whether you need a whole new key or something smaller depends on what actually failed, so we look at the key before quoting. The PATS theft light can still flash if the chip is not read, and worn ignition lock wafers on high-mileage cars remain a real possibility.

2013 to 2016 Fusion: the high-security flip key

The second generation brought a high-security flip key, a blade that folds into a fob. The blade is side-milled rather than cut on the edge, which means it needs a specialty machine to duplicate. A basic key-cutting kiosk is not equipped for it, and that is one reason these keys are poor candidates for a quick copy at a hardware store.

This is the era where the data gets honest about its own limits. The key, sold under the part numbers N5F-A08TAA and 164-R7986, is described differently by different vendors. One supplier lists it as 128-bit. Another, repeating Strattec copy, says Texas 4D63 80-bit. A locksmith guide claims Hitag Pro. These are genuinely conflicting, and we are not going to pick a winner on this page. Our approach is to read the existing key or test the chip before cutting anything. If every key is lost, we confirm the exact setup by VIN first.

There is another wrinkle. Titanium trims in these years use a smart proximity fob with push-button start instead of a flip key. So two 2015 Fusions sitting side by side can need very different work. Tell us your trim, or read us the VIN, and we will sort it out before bringing parts.

Programming for the flip key is through the OBD port, per our data, with no NASTF SDRM requirement shown, and there is a mechanical backup key. Common problems are broken flip hinges, worn shells, dead fob batteries, and the PATS light flashing when the chip is not read.

2017 to 2020 Fusion: the smart key with push-button start

From the 2017 refresh, a locksmith guide in our data shows the Fusion moving to a smart key with push-button start, with a Hitag Pro-family chip. We treat that as unverified. It is the least certain row in the table, and one more caution applies: base S trims may still carry a bladed flip key. So we confirm per vehicle, by VIN, before ordering anything.

If you have the push-button version, the most common problem is also the most harmless. The fob battery dies, and the dash says 'No key detected.' The fob has a hidden emergency blade that still opens the door, and a dead battery does not necessarily mean a lost key. Before you pay for a new fob, check the battery. If the car will not start with a fresh battery, call us and we will look at it.

The more serious problems are lost or damaged fobs: a fob that went through the wash, got crushed, or fell out of a pocket somewhere. Replacement costs more than for older bladed keys, which is simply the nature of a proximity fob. Our data also says an all-keys-lost situation on a proximity system can require an active-alarm adapter, so we confirm the equipment needed for your specific car before we show up.

US Fusion sales ended with the 2020 model year, so every car on this list is at least a few years old now. If you are down to one working fob, that is the time to talk about a spare.

Duplicate or all keys lost: what changes by era?

For every Fusion year in our data, a duplicate starts with a working original key, and all keys lost is possible. The difference is in the work involved. With a key in hand, there is something to read and compare. With none, we start from the car itself: the VIN, the lock, and the ignition system.

Here is how that plays out in practice:

• 2006 to 2009: a duplicate means cutting a blade with a 4D63-family chip and programming it by OBD. All keys lost is possible, and it is a heavier job than a copy. Not having a spare is the part that adds work.
• 2010 to 2012: same chip family, but the key head now carries the remote buttons. A duplicate gets you both functions in one key. All keys lost is possible.
• 2013 to 2016: the side-milled blade needs a specialty machine, and the chip is disputed across vendors. With a working key we read it. With none, we confirm by VIN before cutting. Titanium trims with a proximity fob are handled as the smart-key case.
• 2017 to 2020: duplicates are straightforward in principle but cost more because of the fob. All keys lost can require an active-alarm adapter. We confirm the setup by VIN.

How we handle a Fusion key job, step by step

Whether you call from a driveway or from a parking garage, the process is the same.

1. Call (213) 577-1366. Someone answers around the clock, every day of the year. Give us the model year, the trim if you know it, and whether the car has a start button.
2. We confirm the exact setup by VIN, especially for 2013 and later, where the chip information is disputed or unverified.
3. We tell you what the job involves and what drives the cost, then agree on a plan before work starts. You can reach us through the contact page too if you prefer to write.
4. We come to you with a mobile van, or you bring the car to our storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd in Westwood.
5. We ask you to show you own the car, then cut the key blade if there is one.
6. We program the key through the OBD port and test everything: starting the car, locks, remote buttons, and the backup blade where there is one.

Programming reality: OBD, dealer-only, and what we can honestly say

For every Fusion year in our data, programming method is OBD, and none of them shows a NASTF SDRM requirement. In plain language, that means the programming happens through the port under the dash, and our data does not point to a dealer-only step for any of these model years. That is good news for owners, because it keeps the job local and avoids towing a car anywhere.

That said, we would rather be straight than reassuring. The 2017 to 2020 data is unverified, and proximity systems with every fob lost can require an active-alarm adapter. The 2013 to 2016 chip is disputed. If we look at your VIN and find something that changes the plan, we tell you before work begins, not after. If a particular car turns out to be a dealer-only case, we will say so plainly and you will not pay us for work we cannot finish.

One more point about programming: new keys are not the whole story. Before we call a job done, we check that each key starts the car and that remote functions work.

What affects the price of a Fusion key?

We do not publish numbers on a web page because the honest answer depends on the car and the situation. What we can do is tell you exactly what moves the price, so a quote on the phone makes sense.

The biggest factor is the key type. A plain 2006 to 2009 transponder key is a simpler piece than a 2013 flip key, and a 2017 to 2020 proximity fob typically costs more than the older bladed keys. Next is whether you have a working key. A duplicate is usually the more economical route compared with all keys lost, which involves more steps. That is the strongest practical argument for making a spare before you lose the last key.

Other factors include the following:

• Whether the blade is side-milled and needs a specialty machine, as on the 2013 to 2016 flip key.
• How many keys you want made, and whether you want remote functions.
• Whether the existing key just needs a new shell or battery, rather than a full replacement.
• For proximity cars, whether an active-alarm adapter is needed for an all-keys-lost job.
• Where you are and when you call. A mobile visit involves travel, and your location in our service area affects that.
• Whether the lock or ignition itself is worn, which can mean extra work beyond the key.

Common Fusion key problems and what they usually mean

These are the problems our data lists for the Fusion, grouped roughly by era. Many are easier to fix than owners assume.

• Key sticks or will not turn (2006 to 2012): worn ignition lock wafers on high-mileage cars, or a worn 8-cut blade. We check which one it is before replacing parts.
• Engine cranks but will not start, with the PATS theft light flashing (all eras): the car is not reading the chip. A hardware-store copy without a transponder will cause exactly this.
• Cracked shell or worn buttons (2010 to 2012): the remote-head key is wearing out, not necessarily failing electronically.
• Dead key or fob battery (2010 onward): often the simplest fix. On smart-key cars it shows up as 'No key detected.'
• Broken flip hinge or worn shell (2013 to 2016): common after years of daily use.
• Water-damaged or crushed smart fob (2017 to 2020): this usually means a replacement.

When to call us, and when the dealer might make sense

If you have lost every key, have a key that will not start the car, or need a spare, we are a practical option. We are Wilshire Lock & Key, in business since 1987, with a storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd in Westwood and mobile service vans that cover 140 cities across Los Angeles and Ventura counties. When you call, you are talking to the same company that sends the van. There are no dispatch middlemen in between. David, the owner and lead technician, oversees the work.

A dealer is a legitimate choice if you prefer it, and if you go that way, ask the same questions we answer here: what key does my VIN call for, and what happens if all keys are lost? If your car has a dead fob battery and the blade still opens the door, you may not need either of us yet.

Whoever you hire, ask for their BSIS LCO license. California requires locksmith companies to hold one, and a reputable company will not mind the question.

For broader information, see our Ford key replacement overview, the car key replacement hub, or our home page. To talk to someone now, call (213) 577-1366.

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