Lock Replacement in Los Angeles: Homes, Apartments and Businesses

When is replacement the right call, and when is it not?

Most people call us with a lock that has stopped doing its job. The key sticks, the bolt drags, the handle spins loose, or the door will not latch. Sometimes a fix is enough. Sometimes the lock has reached the end of its life and a repair would only delay the same call. Replacement means we remove the old hardware and install new hardware in its place, then make sure the door, strike, and key all work together.

We would rather tell you honestly which situation you are in than sell you a new lock you do not need. A worn but sound lock can often be repaired. A cracked body, a stripped mechanism, a lock that was forced, or a cylinder that no longer holds its pins is a different story. In those cases new hardware is the sensible route, and it usually ends up the more economical one over time.

This page covers the craft in detail: why people replace locks, how the work is done, how different hardware changes the job, and what a new lock cannot fix. If you just need the number, it is (213) 577-1366, answered around the clock.

What situations lead to a lock replacement call?

Lock replacement rarely starts as a plan. It usually starts with something that went wrong or something that changed. These are the situations we see most often across homes, apartments, and commercial doors:

• A break-in or attempted break-in that damaged the cylinder, strike plate, or door edge.
• A key that snapped off, a lock that jams, or a latch that no longer catches reliably.
• Keys that went missing, were stolen, or are in the hands of people who should no longer have them.
• A move into a new home or apartment where nobody knows how many copies of the old keys exist.
• Old, builder-grade hardware that is loose, corroded, or simply outdated.
• A tenant turnover, a departing employee, or a business that wants tighter control of who can enter.
• A decision to upgrade to a higher-security cylinder, a better deadbolt, or a keypad or smart lock.
• Weather and age: sun, salt air near the coast, and years of daily use all wear moving parts down.

How does a locksmith actually replace a lock?

The job looks simple from the outside, but the details are what decide whether the new lock works smoothly for years or binds in the first month. Here is the sequence we follow on a typical door.

1. Look at the door and the existing lock before touching anything. We check what is installed, what condition it is in, and whether the door itself is sound.
2. Confirm who you are and that you have the right to change the lock. For a home or business, that means asking about occupancy or ownership. We do this on every job.
3. Choose replacement hardware that fits the door: correct bore size, backset, door thickness, handing, and the right finish and function for how the door is used.
4. Remove the old hardware carefully, keeping the door bore and edge intact. If the old lock is damaged or stuck, we use the method that causes the least harm to the door.
5. Inspect and prepare the door. We check the bore holes, the latch mortise, and the edge for splits or wear, and repair or reinforce them if they are marginal.
6. Check the strike plate and the frame. A good lock in a weak frame is only half a job, so we make sure the strike is seated properly and the screws reach solid framing.
7. Install the new lock, align the latch and bolt with the strike, and tighten everything to the right tension without overdriving screws.
8. Test with the door open and closed. We cycle the key and the thumbturn repeatedly, check that the bolt throws fully, and confirm the door closes without being forced.
9. Hand over the keys and walk you through any special features, such as a keypad code or restricted keyway, so you know what you have.

What does a pro check before choosing the new hardware?

Choosing a lock is not just about picking something that looks good. A few measurements and observations decide what will actually work.

Door thickness and the bore hole determine what can be installed without drilling new openings. Backset, the distance from the door edge to the center of the bore, has to match or the latch will not line up. The type of door matters too: solid wood, hollow-core, metal, glass, or aluminum storefront stile each call for different hardware.

We also look at the door's condition. A door that has been kicked in may have a split edge that will not hold a new bolt. A door that sags will cause even good hardware to bind. If the door or frame is the real weakness, we say so and explain the options, rather than bolting a nice lock onto something that will not hold it.

Finally, we ask how the door is used. A front door with daily traffic, a back door that rarely opens, a shared apartment entry, and a stockroom door each have different needs. Hardware grade, finish, and function should match that use.

How do different locks, keys, and hardware change the job?

Not every replacement is the same. The kind of lock on your door shapes the work, the parts, and the time it takes.

• Knobs and lever handles: common on interior and older entry doors. Replacing these is usually straightforward, though levers are often chosen for easier use and a more modern look.
• Deadbolts: single-cylinder bolts use a key outside and a thumbturn inside. Double-cylinder versions need a key on both sides, which has safety implications we are glad to talk through. For adding a bolt where none exists, see our deadbolt installation service.
• Mortise locks: found in older homes and many commercial doors. They sit in a deep pocket in the door edge, so replacement must match the existing mortise or involve careful modification.
• Commercial cylinders and storefront hardware: aluminum-frame glass doors use specialized locks and narrow stiles. These need parts that fit that specific frame.
• Keypad and smart locks: these change the job because power, batteries, and fit with the door and your phone or system all matter. We cover them in detail on our smart lock installation page.
• High-security cylinders: restricted keyways and tighter manufacturing tolerances resist copying and picking. They can be fitted to many doors as an upgrade.
• Mailbox and gate locks: separate hardware with its own parts and weather exposure, handled as their own services.
• Vehicle locks: automotive work depends on make, model, year, and key type, and some cases are dealer-only. We confirm by VIN and in person rather than guessing, so ask us about your specific vehicle.

What is different about apartments, houses, and businesses?

The craft is the same, but the context changes how we approach it.

In a house, you control the door and usually the keys, so the main questions are security level, hardware quality, and how many entry points need matching. Many homeowners prefer to have all exterior doors on the same key, which we can arrange.

In an apartment or rental, the situation often involves a tenant turnover or a landlord's responsibility. We ask for the right authorization and make sure the work is done with the property owner's knowledge when needed. Replacement between tenants is common and sensible, because nobody can know how many copies of old keys are out there.

For a business, the stakes are different. A door may need to meet fire and egress requirements, stay compatible with a master key system, or work with panic hardware and door closers. Business security upgrades also often involve thinking about who holds keys, how access is tracked, and how quickly a locked-out opening can be restored. We plan these jobs around how the business actually runs, and we can work with after-hours needs because we answer calls 24/7.

What can lock replacement not fix?

A new lock is only as strong as the door and frame around it. Replacement will not repair a rotted jamb, a warped door, or a glass panel next to the handle that can simply be broken. If that is the real weakness, we will tell you, and we will suggest reinforcement or other options.

Sometimes replacement is more than you need. If the lock itself is sound but a former tenant or roommate still has a key, lock rekeying changes what key works without swapping the hardware, and it is often the lighter-cost route. If a mechanism is merely sticking or a part has worn but the lock body is healthy, lock repair may be the right call.

Replacement also cannot make a door secure against every threat. No lock is unbeatable, and we will not claim otherwise. What good hardware does is raise the effort and noise required to defeat it, and make everyday use reliable. We would rather set your expectations honestly than oversell.

What affects the cost of replacing a lock?

We do not quote numbers on a web page because the real cost depends on your door, and we would rather give you an accurate figure than a guess that misleads you. These are the factors that move the total:

• Hardware grade and brand: basic builder-grade locks, mid-range residential hardware, and high-security or commercial-grade cylinders are very different products.
• The number of locks: replacing one deadbolt is a different job than doing every door on a property or a whole building.
• Lock type: mortise, storefront, smart, and restricted-keyway locks cost more to supply and sometimes more to fit than a standard knob or bolt.
• Door and frame condition: extra prep, strike reinforcement, or repair work adds to the job.
• Keying: matching several locks to one key or setting up a master key system takes added work.
• Timing: after-hours and emergency calls differ from scheduled daytime work.
• Travel distance: our mobile vans cover a wide area, and distance can be a factor.

Why call Wilshire Lock & Key for lock replacement?

We have been in business since 1987. That is decades of seeing how locks fail, which brands hold up, and which shortcuts cause problems six months later. David, the owner and lead technician, oversees the work, so there is a person accountable for what happens at your door.

We run a real storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd in Westwood, plus mobile service vans. When you call (213) 577-1366, you reach our company, not a call center that passes your job to whoever is available. We are one company with no dispatch middlemen, which means the person who explains the work is connected to the people doing it.

On licensing: California requires locksmith companies to hold a license from the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services, called a BSIS LCO license. You should ask any locksmith you consider for their license number before they start work, and you should feel free to ask us too. It is a fair question and a good habit.

We answer the phone 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, year-round. If your lock fails at night or on a holiday, you can still reach us.

Where do we replace locks?

We serve 140 cities across Los Angeles and Ventura counties, working from our Westwood storefront and our mobile vans. You can see the full list on our locations page, where each city has its own page with local details.

If you are in the city of Los Angeles, our Los Angeles lock replacement page covers the area in more detail. We also have dedicated pages for Santa Monica and Pasadena, among many others. If your city is not named, call us anyway, because the list is long and we may well cover you.

For help understanding how pricing works before you call, our pricing page explains what we look at on each job.

Lock Replacement near you

• Los Angeles
• Beverly Hills
• Santa Monica
• Culver City
• West Hollywood
• Sherman Oaks
• Marina del Rey
• Ladera Heights
• Encino
• Inglewood
• Studio City
• View Park–Windsor Hills
• Van Nuys
• Lake Balboa
• All service areas

Related services

• Residential Locksmith
• Lock Rekey
• Change Locks
• Lock Repair
• Lock Installation
• Deadbolt Installation