Honda Fit key replacement in Los Angeles

Honda Fit keys by year

Which key does your Honda Fit use?

The US-market Fit came in three key eras, and which one you own decides nearly everything about replacement. The first generation (GD) is 2007–2008. The second (GE) is 2009–2013. The third (GK) is 2015–2020. There was no 2014 US Fit, because the third generation arrived as a 2015 model, so be wary of any listing for a '2014 Fit key.'

Every year in our data uses a transponder key: a chip in the head talks to the car before the engine will run. A plain metal copy from a hardware store can turn in the ignition and still not start the car. The year-by-year table on this page shows the key type and chip family for each model year, and the text here explains what those entries mean for you. For the brand as a whole, see our Honda key replacement guide, or browse all of our car key services.

What do 2007–2008 Fit owners need?

This is the one era where we will not name your chip over the phone. Most first-generation Fits take the ID46 remote-head key (OUCG8D-380H-A). But some use the Megamos 8E chip instead, and the two systems are not interchangeable. An 'H' stamped on the original blade, on an HD113 blank, marks the 8E type.

Vendor catalogs genuinely disagree here. Most list ID46, several warn about the 8E cars, and at least one lists 8E for the whole generation. That is why our data for 2007 and 2008 is marked conflicting rather than verified, and we would rather say so than guess. If you still have a key, we read the stamp or do a chip read before cutting anything. If every key is gone there is no stamp to look at, so we confirm the exact setup by VIN and in person before we order or cut a blank.

Either way, these cars program through the OBD port, a duplicate needs an original key, and all-keys-lost is possible in both years.

What do 2009–2013 Fit owners need?

The second generation is the most straightforward Fit. Our data is verified for every year from 2009 to 2013: an ID46 chip (PCF7936/7961, Hitag 2) in an MLBHLIK-1T remote-head key, meaning a blade with the remote built into the head. Programming goes through the OBD port, and the data shows a mechanical backup key for these years.

These are older cars now, so the problem is usually wear rather than a simple lost key. High-mileage Fits can have worn ignition lock wafers, which makes a key feel gritty or turn unevenly. Remote-head shells crack and buttons wear flat. If a new key still fights the ignition, the lock itself may be the real issue, and we will tell you that rather than sell you a key that cannot fix it.

What do 2015–2020 Fit owners need?

The third generation moved to the Honda G chip (ID47, Hitag 3), verified for 2015 through 2020. Which key you need depends on trim. The LX keeps a keyed ignition and uses the MLBHLIK6-1T remote-head key. EX and above use the KR5V1X smart fob with push-button start, and that fob also carries the ID47 chip. US sales ended after 2020, so this is the final generation.

The table on this page reflects the keyed base trim. If you own an EX or higher, tell us the trim when you call and we will confirm the exact fob and procedure by VIN rather than assume it matches the keyed car. Our data shows OBD programming and no NASTF SDRM requirement for these years, but a smart fob is a different part from a remote-head key, so we check in person.

On push-button cars the most common complaint is simple: the dash says 'key not detected.' That is often just a weak fob battery. Read the problems section below before you assume the fob has failed.

Duplicate or all keys lost: how does it differ on a Fit?

For every model year in our data, duplicating a key needs an original key, and all-keys-lost is possible. In practice that gives you two situations, and they are not the same job.

• You have one working key: we copy it and program the new one to the car. This is the lighter-cost route and usually the more economical one, and it is far simpler than starting from nothing.
• You have no working key: we work from the car itself. That means identifying the correct key system (especially on 2007–2008 cars, where two chips exist), preparing a blank, and programming through the OBD port. It is more work, so it is priced differently.

Can a Honda Fit be programmed without the dealer?

According to the data we work from, yes. Every year listed programs through the OBD port, meaning we connect to the diagnostic port under the dash and register the new key with the car. None is marked as needing NASTF SDRM access, the registry some makes require before security information is released. Nothing in the verified Fit data puts these cars in dealer-only territory.

Two honest limits. First, 2007–2008 is flagged conflicting, so the exact chip and procedure are confirmed by VIN and in person. Second, we treat EX-and-above smart-fob cars separately from the keyed trims and confirm them before promising anything. If a particular car turns out to need a dealer step, we will say so plainly before work starts, not after.

How we replace a Fit key, step by step

The process is the same whether you come to our Westwood shop or we drive to you, with a few extra checks on older cars.

1. You call (213) 577-1366 and tell us the model year, the trim if you know it (LX, or EX and above), and whether you still have any working key.
2. We identify the key system. For 2009–2020 the year and trim settle it. For 2007–2008 we read the blade stamp, do a chip read, or confirm by VIN.
3. We confirm the car is yours before making a key, so expect to show ID and proof of ownership or registration.
4. We cut the blade to fit the lock, using a copy from your key or an all-keys-lost process, depending on your situation.
5. We program the key to the car through the OBD port.
6. We test the ignition, door locks, and remote buttons before we leave, and hand over your spare.

What affects the cost of a Honda Fit key?

We will not put a number on a web page, because the honest answer depends on your car and your situation. These are the things that move the cost:

• Key type: a keyed remote-head key (2007–2013 and LX trims) and a smart fob (EX and above) are different parts with different procedures.
• Whether you have a working key: copying from one is the lighter-cost route, while all-keys-lost involves more work.
• Chip identification: 2007–2008 cars may need a stamp check or chip read first, because the two chip systems are not interchangeable.
• Lock condition: worn ignition lock wafers on a high-mileage car can add work beyond the key itself.
• How many keys you want: making a spare during the same visit is usually the more economical route than a second call later.
• Where and when: coming to our Westwood storefront is different from a van trip across the county, and a late-night emergency is not the same as a daytime appointment.

What goes wrong with Fit keys?

These are the problems our Fit data points to, by era.

• Worn ignition lock wafers (2007–2013, high-mileage cars): the key sticks, feels rough, or stops turning smoothly.
• Cracked remote-head shells and worn buttons (every year): we look at whether it is a shell problem or needs a full replacement key.
• Remote battery failure (every year): the remote buttons quit, which is a different issue from a key that will not start the car.
• Dead smart-fob battery (EX and above, 2015–2020): the dash reports 'key not detected.' Try a fresh fob battery before assuming the fob is dead.
• Non-transponder hardware-store copies (every year): they may turn in the ignition, but the car will not start.

When should you call us, and when the dealer?

Call us if you have lost every key, need a spare, have a damaged key, or are stuck away from home. Our phone is answered 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and we work from a storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90024 in Westwood, plus mobile vans. We serve 140 cities across Los Angeles and Ventura counties, so for most Fits the car does not need to be towed anywhere.

A dealer is a reasonable choice if you are not in a hurry and can get the car to them. The trade-off is simply that the car has to travel to them, while we travel to the car.

One more thing worth doing with any locksmith: California requires locksmith companies to hold a BSIS LCO license, and you should ask to see it before work begins.

We have been in business since 1987. You deal with one company, with no dispatch middlemen, and David, our owner and lead technician, oversees the work. Learn more about us at Wilshire Lock & Key, or reach us any time through our contact page.

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