What is a panic bar, and what does installing one involve?
A panic bar is the horizontal bar across the inside of an exit door. You may also hear it called a push bar, crash bar or exit device. Press it anywhere along its length and the latch pulls back, so anyone can leave without a key, a knob to turn or any knowledge of how the door works. That is the whole point. In a crowded, dark or smoky building, people push. They do not fiddle with hardware.
Panic bar installation is more than bolting a bar to a door. The device has to suit the door (single or pair; wood, hollow metal or aluminum storefront), the opening's fire rating, the hardware on the outside, and the way the building is really used. We handle panic hardware installation, repair and replacement on commercial doors in Commerce, and we treat every opening as an egress question first and a hardware question second.
These are the main families of exit device we work with:
- Rim exit devices, which latch onto a strike on the door frame. These are the most common choice on a single door.
- Surface vertical rod devices, where rods run to the top and bottom of the door. These suit pairs of doors that have no center post.
- Concealed vertical rod devices, with the rods inside the door for a cleaner look. They take more labor to service later.
- Mortise lock exit devices, built around a mortise lock body in the door edge. They are common on narrow-stile aluminum storefront doors.
- Fire exit hardware, which is tested and labeled for fire-rated doors. It is a different product from plain panic hardware, and the two are not interchangeable.
Why do panic bars and emergency exit doors fail?
Most of the egress doors we expect to work on in Commerce belong to industrial and commercial buildings: side exits on warehouses, rear doors near loading areas, back doors on distribution space and retail stockrooms. Those doors take a beating. They get slammed, propped open, bumped by carts and pallet jacks, and shoved by people carrying loads with both hands. Hardware wear in this part of the Los Angeles basin comes mainly from heavy daily use, not from weather.
A failing exit device rarely announces itself with a dramatic break. It usually gets worse slowly while people work around it. These are the signs we see most often described, and any of them means the door needs attention:
- The bar sticks down or does not spring back when released.
- You have to push hard, or lean a shoulder into the door, before the latch lets go.
- The door does not latch on its own, so someone wedges it shut or chains it.
- The outside lever or key cylinder is loose, spins freely or no longer works.
- The bar is bent, or the end caps and mounting plates are cracked from impact.
- On a pair of doors, the two leaves no longer meet cleanly, or the rods have slipped out of adjustment.
- The door slams or drifts shut slowly, which strains the latch. A tired closer is often the real culprit, and our page on door closer repair covers that side of the problem.
Locked out or need a locksmith now?
We answer around the clock, every day of the year.
Call (213) 577-1366How does panic bar installation work, step by step?
Every opening is a little different, but the sequence is consistent. This is how a typical panic bar installation or emergency exit door repair goes with us.
- You call (213) 577-1366. A person answers at any hour. Tell us what kind of door it is, what is happening with it, and whether the building will be occupied or open to the public before the work is done.
- We look at the door itself: material, thickness, width, swing direction, any fire label on the edge, the frame, the closer and whatever hardware is there now. Photos help on the phone, but we confirm everything in person.
- We decide with you what the opening needs. That means the device type, whether the outside gets a lever, a key cylinder or no trim at all, and whether the opening is fire-rated. If your fire marshal, landlord or building department has given you a requirement, we work to it.
- We prepare the door. That can mean removing the old device, dealing with leftover holes, reinforcing a thin door where the bolts will sit, and checking that the frame can hold a strike.
- We mount the device, set the strike, and adjust the latch and any rods so everything lines up with the door closed. Mounting height and position are set to what egress rules allow.
- We test it repeatedly: push from both ends and the middle of the bar, confirm the latch fully retracts, confirm the door closes and latches on its own, and run the outside trim through its cycles.
- We walk you through it before we leave. You get a clear picture of how the outside key or trim works, what the dogging feature does if the device has one, and what to check yourself going forward.
Should you repair or replace a panic bar?
Panic bar repair is often the more economical route, and when it is, we will say so. Many exit devices stay serviceable for a long time if the right worn part is swapped and the adjustment is corrected. A sticking bar, a worn latch, a stripped trim, a loose mounting or a misaligned strike can usually be fixed without replacing the whole device.
Panic bar replacement makes more sense in a different set of situations. We lean toward replacing when:
- The bar or case is bent, cracked or corroded enough that internal parts no longer move freely.
- The maker has dropped the model and the parts are no longer available.
- The device is the wrong type for the door, for example a non-rated device on a door that carries a fire label.
- The door has been changed, widened, replaced or converted from a single to a pair, and the old device no longer fits it.
- Repeated repairs on the same door are costing more over time than a new device would.
Locked out or need a locksmith now?
We answer around the clock, every day of the year.
Call (213) 577-1366How much does panic bar installation cost in Commerce?
We do not quote numbers in a web page, because a panic bar job depends on the door, not on a menu. What we can do is tell you exactly what moves the cost up or down, so nothing surprises you:
The device itself: a basic rim device costs less to supply than a rated vertical rod unit or a mortise-style exit device built for a narrow-stile storefront door.
Single door or pair: a pair of doors usually means more hardware, more adjustment time and, sometimes, a removable center mullion.
Trim: an exit-only device is simpler than one with an outside lever, key cylinder or electric trim tied into other systems.
Door and frame condition: old prep holes, a thin or damaged door skin, a worn frame or a rusted strike area add preparation work before anything new goes on.
Fire rating: labeled openings need listed hardware and more care, which affects both parts and labor.
Related hardware: a worn closer or hinges may need attention for the new device to work properly.
Timing and access: an emergency visit in the middle of the night is different from scheduled work, and difficult access or heavy foot traffic affects how we plan the job.
Once we have seen the door and know what it needs, we give you the figure before we start. Quoting a rated pair of doors blind would be guessing, and guessing helps nobody.
What do codes say about exit devices, and who decides?
Building and fire codes in California generally require that exit doors open from the inside without a key, special knowledge or special effort. Certain buildings and occupancies, usually those with larger occupant loads, are also required to have panic hardware on specific doors. Whether your door falls in that group depends on your occupancy classification and occupant load. That call belongs to your building department and fire marshal, not to a locksmith, and we will not pretend otherwise. What we do is install and repair the hardware so the door works the way those rules intend.
Two other points are worth knowing. First, a chained, padlocked or screwed-shut exit door is never a fix. If a door will not latch properly and someone has chained it as a workaround, the right answer is repairing the latch, not blocking the exit. Second, if an exit door is tied into magnetic locks, electric strikes or card readers, the release behavior has to be designed carefully. Our access control installation work follows the same principle: whatever secures the door from outside, people still have to be able to get out.
One more honest note about the trade itself. California requires locksmith companies to hold a Locksmith Company license from BSIS, the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services. Ask any locksmith, us included, for the license number and verify it with BSIS before work begins. It takes a minute and it is a reasonable thing to ask.
Locked out or need a locksmith now?
We answer around the clock, every day of the year.
Call (213) 577-1366What does panic bar work look like around Commerce?
Commerce is a small city with an unusual layout for locksmith work. Most of its floor area is warehouses and distribution buildings along Washington Boulevard, Telegraph Road and the I-5 corridor, and a small residential population lives in compact pockets around Rosewood Park, Bandini and Bristow Park, with newer townhome infill at Rosewood Village. In 90040, industrial and residential needs sit side by side, and panic bar installation sits firmly on the industrial side.
For warehouse and distribution doors along Washington Boulevard and Telegraph Road, the typical request is an exit door that takes constant abuse: a bar that has been hit, a latch worn from thousands of cycles, or a door that has been repeatedly propped open. In hot, dry inland summers it is tempting to prop exit doors for airflow, and that habit is hard on closers and latches. Our commercial door hardware page covers the wider hardware picture for these buildings.
Industrial tenants near the I-5 corridor often need exit-device work combined with key control. When a tenant moves in or out, the outside trim may need to be rekeyed to a new system, and a master key system keeps that organized across several doors without handing out more keys than necessary.
Retail is a different picture. Stores near Citadel Outlets have storefront doors, and aluminum storefront doors need narrow-stile hardware that is not the same as a standard warehouse bar. If the door is out of alignment or the lock side is failing, our storefront lock repair page explains what that involves.
Wherever the door is, whether along Washington Boulevard, Telegraph Road or Atlantic Boulevard, the work starts with the same questions about door, rating and use. Homes in the Rosewood Park, Bandini and Bristow Park pockets rarely need exit devices, so if you are calling about one of those, tell us what you actually need and we will point you to the right service.
Why call Wilshire Lock & Key for exit device work?
We have been in business since 1987, and that history shows up in the unglamorous details of exit hardware: knowing which older devices can be rebuilt, which cannot, and which problems are really door or closer problems. We serve 140 cities across Los Angeles and Ventura counties, and Commerce is one of them.
You are dealing with one company, not a dispatch service that sells your call to whoever is nearest. We run a storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd in Westwood plus mobile service vans, and David, the owner and lead technician, oversees the work. The phone at (213) 577-1366 is answered 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, year-round, which matters when an exit door fails at a busy building after hours.
If the problem is bigger than the bar, we can help with that too. A building locked up with a failed latch may be a business lockout first and an exit device repair second, and after-hours situations are handled through our emergency locksmith service. For the broader picture of what we do for businesses, see commercial locksmith.
Locked out or need a locksmith now?
We answer around the clock, every day of the year.
Call (213) 577-1366How can you keep exit devices working between service visits?
Most failures give a warning first. A few simple habits catch them early:
- Push test each exit door regularly. The bar should move smoothly and the door should open without a struggle.
- Watch the door close. It should swing shut and latch by itself, every time, without being pulled.
- Keep exit paths clear, and never chain, wedge or block an egress door, even briefly.
- Check for loose screws, wobbly trim and cracked end caps. Tightening something small early can prevent a bigger repair.
- Follow the manufacturer's lubrication guidance rather than spraying whatever is on the shelf, since the wrong product can attract dirt.
- Report a sticking bar quickly. A bar that sticks at 3 p.m. is a problem at 3 a.m. when the building empties in a hurry.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a panic bar, push bar, crash bar and exit device?
In everyday use they all mean the same thing: a bar on the inside of an exit door that releases the latch when pushed. Exit device is the more formal industry term, and panic hardware is the category name used in codes. The differences that actually matter are the mechanism type, whether the device is fire-rated, and what trim is on the outside.
Can you install or repair a panic bar in Commerce after hours?
Yes. Our phone at (213) 577-1366 is answered 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, year-round. Tell us whether the building is open or secured and what the door is doing, and we will plan the visit around that. Scheduled installation work is easier to plan, but a failed exit door should not wait.
Do I need fire exit hardware or regular panic hardware?
It depends on the door. If the edge of the door carries a fire label, the device generally needs to be listed for that opening, which means fire exit hardware rather than plain panic hardware. We read the labels on site and confirm. Your fire marshal or building department has the final say on what your building requires.
My panic bar sticks. Should I repair or replace it?
Often it can be repaired, and that is usually the more economical route. Sticking is commonly caused by worn parts, dirt, a misaligned strike or a door that has sagged. If the bar is bent, corroded, or no longer available from the maker, replacement is the sounder choice. We can tell once we have the cover off.
Can a panic bar door still be locked from the outside?
Yes. The outside can have a lever, a key cylinder or no trim at all, depending on how you want to control entry. What must stay true is that the inside always opens freely. We can set up outside trim so that your key or system controls entry while the bar still works for anyone leaving.
Can I chain or padlock an exit door overnight?
No. An exit door has to open from the inside without a key or special effort whenever people may be in the building. If you are tempted to chain a door because the latch does not hold, that is a sign the hardware needs repair. Call us and we will fix the latch so the door secures properly without blocking the exit.
Can you fit panic hardware on a pair of doors with no center post?
Yes, this is a common job. It usually calls for vertical rod devices or a removable center mullion, depending on the doors and the frame. Pairs take more adjustment than single doors, so we look at the doors, the gap between them and the fire rating before recommending anything.
Can you work on older exit devices that are no longer made?
Sometimes. Many older devices can be rebuilt with replacement parts, but some are too worn or the parts cannot be found. We will tell you plainly which case you have after we inspect it, and if replacement is the better route we will explain why and what to match it to.
Do you need to see the door before giving a price?
For anything beyond a simple repair, yes. Door material, fire rating, frame condition, pair or single and trim choice all change the work. We can give you a general idea on the phone about what affects cost, but a firm figure comes after we have looked at the opening.
More locksmith help in Commerce
Panic Bar Installation near Commerce
Reviewed by David, Owner & Lead Technician, Wilshire Lock & Key — in the locksmith trade since 1987.
Last updated 2026-10-11.
