Ford Explorer keys by year
| Year | Key type | Chip | Push-to-start |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2026 | Smart / proximity key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | Yes |
| 2025 | Smart / proximity key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | Yes |
| 2024 | Smart / proximity key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | Yes |
| 2023 | Smart / proximity key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | Yes |
| 2022 | Smart / proximity key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | Yes |
| 2021 | Smart / proximity key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | Yes |
| 2020 | Smart / proximity key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | Yes |
| 2019 | Remote-head key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | No |
| 2018 | Remote-head key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | No |
| 2017 | Remote-head key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | No |
| 2016 | Remote-head key | 128-bit (Hitag Pro family) (unconfirmed) | No |
| 2015 | Remote-head key | 4D63 (80-bit) | No |
| 2014 | Remote-head key | 4D63 (80-bit) | No |
| 2013 | Remote-head key | 4D63 (80-bit) | No |
| 2012 | Remote-head key | 4D63 (80-bit) | No |
| 2011 | Remote-head key | 4D63 (80-bit) | No |
| 2010 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2009 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2008 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2007 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2006 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2005 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2004 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2003 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2002 | Transponder chip key | 4D63 | No |
| 2001 | Transponder chip key | 4C (unconfirmed) | No |
| 2000 | Transponder chip key | 4C | No |
Which Explorer key do you actually have?
The Explorer has run through five generations in our data, and the key changed more than once along the way. A 2003 Explorer and a 2023 Explorer share a badge and almost nothing about how they start. Before anything else, we sort your vehicle into one of three families: a transponder key with a plain metal head, a remote-head key with the lock and unlock buttons built into the head, or a smart proximity fob with push-button start.
The year-by-year table on this page shows the key type, chip family and programming method for each model year. This text covers what the table can't: what each era means for you when a key goes missing, snaps, or stops the truck from starting. Where our information is unverified or catalogs disagree, we say so and confirm the exact setup by VIN before cutting or programming anything.
One thing holds across every year in our data: each Explorer has a mechanical backup key. Even on the push-button models, a hidden emergency blade opens the door. If you drive other Fords too, our Ford key replacement overview covers the wider picture.
What do 2000 and 2001 Explorers need?
These sit in the second generation (UN105, 1995-2001). Ford's SecuriLock system, with a Texas 4C chip, arrived in 1998, and the early setup used a separate PATS module. For the 2000 model year our data is verified: a 4C transponder key from the H72 family, with fitment lists and PATS guides both covering the Explorer in this era. Our table starts at 2000. If you have a 1995-1997 Explorer, call us and we verify the key situation in person rather than guess.
The 2001 model year is where the catalogs disagree. The H72/4C fitment lists run through 2001, but one 4D63 fitment list starts at 2001. So we treat 2001 as conflicting: we read the key you have, or test the chip, before we cut or order anything. That protects you from paying for a key that fits the lock but never starts the engine.
For both years, duplicating needs an original key, and an all-keys-lost job is possible through OBD programming with no NASTF/SDRM credentials required. These trucks are old now, so the usual trouble is mechanical: worn eight-cut blades and tired ignition wafers.
What about 2002 through 2010 Explorers?
This stretch covers the third generation (U152, 2002-2005) and fourth generation (U251, 2006-2010). Every year is verified in our data as a Texas 4D63 transponder from the 40-bit era, confirmed by Explorer fitment listings. Aftermarket dual-mode 40/80-bit chips cover these vehicles, which keeps replacement keys practical to source.
The helpful detail for owners is onboard add-a-key. With two working keys, a new key can be added using the vehicle itself. With fewer than two, programming goes through the OBD port with our equipment. Either way, you are not stuck going to the dealer for a spare.
Duplication still needs an original key in hand, and all keys lost is possible for each of these years. We cut the blade, program the chip, then test door, ignition and start. The 2001/2002 boundary is split in catalogs, but 2002 itself is verified 4D63.
Locked out or need a locksmith now?
We answer around the clock, every day of the year.
Call (213) 577-1366What changed on 2011 through 2019 Explorers?
The fifth generation (U502, 2011-2019) brought remote-head keys. For 2011 through 2015 our data is verified: an 80-bit 4D63 chip in a remote-head key, programmed through OBD with no NASTF/SDRM credentials required. Some upper trims in these years came with the optional Intelligent Access smart fob and push-button start, so look at your dash and key before assuming. If you have a button on the dash, tell us when you call.
From 2016 through 2019 we have to be more careful. We believe the 2016 refresh moved bladed keys to the 128-bit Hitag Pro family, with smart fobs on upper trims. But the sources behind our data did not explicitly confirm that for the Explorer, so those years are marked unverified. We confirm per VIN before we quote, not after.
One more item: proximity all-keys-lost on 2017 and newer can require an active-alarm adapter. That's something we check up front on any smart-fob truck, and it can change how the job is done. For bladed remote-head keys, expect the usual all-keys-lost process, with OBD programming listed for each year in the table.
What about 2020 and newer smart-fob Explorers?
The sixth generation (U625, 2020-2026) makes the smart proximity fob and push-button start standard. For 2020, our data lists OBD programming and says all keys lost is possible. The chip family, 128-bit Hitag Pro, is our era knowledge and was not verified in our sources, so we confirm it by VIN.
For 2021 through 2026 we are honest about what we don't know. Our data leaves the programming method open. NASTF's own service guidance confirms that PATS functions through Ford's FDRS/FJDS software, used with a non-dealer login, require NASTF VSP credentials or an OEM-assisted immobilizer request. Aftermarket tool coverage for these years varies from month to month.
So here's how we handle a call on a 2021-or-newer Explorer: we confirm current coverage before quoting. If your job turns out to be dealer-or-VSP-only, we tell you that plainly instead of taking your deposit and finding out later. If you only have a dead fob battery, the hidden emergency blade opens the door, and the fob usually just needs a battery or a hold against the start button as the owner's manual describes.
Duplicate key or all keys lost: what is the difference?
Every Explorer year in our data needs an original key to duplicate. If you still have one working key, you're in the easiest position, because we read it, cut a matching blade and add a new key to the vehicle. That's the situation to be in, and the time to make a spare is before the last key is gone.
All keys lost is possible for 2000 through 2020 in our data. For 2021 and newer it isn't settled in our data, which is why we confirm coverage first. On a no-key job, the process usually goes like this:
- Confirm the vehicle and your right to it with its VIN, your ID and registration.
- Identify the key family by year, then verify the chip details by VIN where our data is unverified or conflicting.
- Cut a new blade to fit the door and ignition locks, or supply the correct smart fob for push-button models.
- Program the new key through the OBD port, using an active-alarm adapter if a proximity model needs one.
- Test every function: doors, remote buttons, ignition or push-button start, and the mechanical backup blade.
Locked out or need a locksmith now?
We answer around the clock, every day of the year.
Call (213) 577-1366How much does Explorer key replacement cost?
We don't quote numbers on a web page, because the honest answer depends on your exact truck. These are the factors that move the cost:
- Key family: a plain transponder key, a remote-head key and a smart fob are three different cost levels, and lost-fob replacement costs more than older bladed keys.
- Whether you have a working key: adding a key from one you hold is usually the more economical route compared with starting from zero.
- Year and programming access: 2021 and newer may need NASTF VSP credentials or an OEM-assisted request, which adds steps.
- Active-alarm adapter needs on proximity all-keys-lost jobs.
- Blade and ignition condition: a badly worn eight-cut blade or tired ignition wafers can mean extra work beyond the key itself.
- How many keys you want: making a spare during the same visit is usually more economical than a second trip later.
What key problems do Explorers actually have?
The problems below come from our data, grouped by era. They are not rare, and most are fixable without replacing the whole ignition.
- 2000-2010: worn ignition lock wafers on high-mileage trucks, so the key sticks or won't turn.
- 2000-2010: worn eight-cut key blades that stop turning the locks.
- 2000-2019: the PATS theft light flashing, where the engine cranks but won't start because the chip isn't being read.
- 2000-2010: hardware-store copies cut without a transponder that open the doors but will not start the engine.
- 2011-2019: cracked remote-head shells, worn buttons and failed key or remote batteries.
- 2020 on: dead smart-fob batteries showing 'No key detected', and water-damaged or crushed fobs.
When should you call us instead of the dealer?
Call us first for most Explorer key jobs, especially on 2000-2020 trucks, where our data shows OBD programming with no special credentials. We are a storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd in Westwood with mobile service vans, so we can come to the vehicle instead of you arranging a tow. We've been in business since 1987, and it's one company, with no dispatch middlemen between you and the technician. David, the owner and lead technician, oversees the work.
The dealer makes sense in a narrow case: some 2021-and-newer Explorers where the job turns out to be dealer-or-VSP-only. We'll say so if that's what we find. Whoever you call, ask for their California BSIS LCO locksmith company license number. California requires locksmith companies to hold one, and any legitimate shop will give it to you.
Our phone line, (213) 577-1366, is answered 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, year-round. You can also use our contact page, browse the full car keys section, or start from our homepage to see everything else we do.
Frequently asked questions
Can you make a new Explorer key if I've lost every key?
For 2000 through 2020 models, yes, all keys lost is possible in our data using OBD programming. For 2021 and newer, we confirm current tool coverage first and tell you plainly if it's dealer-or-VSP-only.
Will a hardware-store copy start my Explorer?
Often not. On the 2000-2010 trucks, a plain copy cut without a transponder chip will open the doors but will not start the engine. The chip has to be present and programmed to the vehicle.
Do I need to bring my original key?
Duplicating needs an original key for every Explorer year in our data. If you have none, that's an all-keys-lost job, which we handle differently and confirm by VIN.
Is my 2016-2019 Explorer a 128-bit Hitag Pro key?
We believe so, but our sources did not explicitly confirm it for the Explorer, so we treat those years as unverified. We confirm the exact chip and setup by VIN before quoting or cutting.
Can you program a 2021 or newer Explorer smart fob?
It depends on current tool coverage. Ford PATS functions through FDRS/FJDS with a non-dealer login require NASTF VSP credentials or an OEM-assisted request. We check first and say plainly if a job is dealer-or-VSP-only.
My Explorer says 'No key detected'. Do I need a new fob?
Not always. Dead smart-fob batteries are a common cause, and the hidden emergency blade still opens the door. If a fresh battery doesn't help, the fob may be damaged, and we can test it.
Do I have to tow my Explorer to you?
Usually not. We run mobile service vans, and we also have a storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd in Westwood. Call (213) 577-1366 and we'll work out the right option for your truck.
Is it more economical to make a spare before I lose the last key?
Yes, usually. Adding a key from a working original is typically the more economical route than an all-keys-lost job. On 2002-2010 models with two working keys, a key can even be added onboard.
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Reviewed by David, Owner & Lead Technician, Wilshire Lock & Key — in the locksmith trade since 1987.
Last updated 2026-10-11.
