2013 Ford Escape Key Replacement

The 2013–2019 Escape uses the same key setup, so everything on this page applies to those years too. The full picture is on the Ford Escape key guide.

2013 Ford Escape: key facts

Key type: Remote-head key
Push-to-start: No
Transponder chip: 4D63 (80-bit)
Programming: OBD
All keys lost: We can originate new keys on site

Remote-head key (Strattec OUCD6000022, confirmed 2013-2019) with the 80-bit 4D63 on a high-security blade; Titanium and some SE trims use a smart proximity fob with push-button start. Note: bladed keys on this generation stayed 80-bit through 2019 — it did not move to the 128-bit chip.

What kind of key does a 2013 Escape use?

Most 2013 Escapes use a remote-head key: a metal high-security blade with the remote buttons built into the plastic head. Inside the head is a transponder chip, the 4D63, which is an 80-bit chip. The blade turns the ignition and the chip tells the truck's anti-theft system, Ford's PATS, that the key belongs there. If the chip isn't read, the engine may crank but it will not start.

One detail worth knowing if you shop around: this generation of bladed Escape key stayed on the 80-bit chip all the way through 2019. It never moved to the 128-bit chip, so you don't need to worry about a newer-style chip on a 2013.

Not every 2013 Escape is the same, though. Titanium models and some SE trims came with a smart proximity fob and push-button start instead of a bladed key. That is a different part and a different programming job. If you aren't sure which one you have, check whether you put a metal key into the ignition or press a start button. Either way, we confirm the exact setup by VIN before we cut or program anything.

Standard setup: remote-head key, high-security blade, 4D63 80-bit chip
Titanium and some SE trims: smart proximity fob with push-button start
Mechanical backup key: yes, so a dead battery doesn't have to lock you out

Duplicate key or all keys lost: what's the difference?

Making a copy while you still have a working key is the simpler job. For this Escape, an original key is needed to duplicate from. We cut the blade, program the chip and remote to the vehicle, and test that it starts the engine and that the buttons work.

If every key is gone, a new key is still possible. It takes more steps because there is no working key to learn from. We cut a blade by code or by the lock, then program a new key through the OBD port using the vehicle's diagnostic connection. For this setup, the programming does not require NASTF SDRM access, so it doesn't turn into a dealer-only situation.

Either way, it's worth doing sooner than later. Having a spare made while you still hold a working key is the easier and usually more economical route compared with an all-keys-lost call.

How we handle a 2013 Escape key job

The process is the same whether you call us from home, work, or a parking lot. We run mobile vans out of our Westwood storefront, and we also do this work in the shop.

You call (213) 577-1366 and tell us the year, model, and whether you have a push-button start or a metal key. A person answers, at any hour.
We confirm the vehicle by VIN and your proof of ownership before we start.
We cut the high-security blade to match, by code, from your original key, or from the lock if needed.
We program the 4D63 chip and the remote functions through the OBD port.
We test the key in the ignition, the door locks, and the remote buttons, and check that the PATS light behaves normally.

Locked out or need a locksmith now?

We answer around the clock, every day of the year.

Call (213) 577-1366

What affects the price of a 2013 Escape key?

We won't quote numbers on a web page, because the real cost depends on your situation. These are the things that move it:

Whether you have a working key to copy from or all keys are lost
Whether it's a bladed remote-head key or a smart fob on a Titanium or SE trim
How many keys you need made at once
Whether the remote buttons and shell are worn and you want the key rebuilt in a new shell
Where you are and what time you call, since a mobile visit costs more to run than a shop visit
Whether the real problem is the key at all, since a worn ignition lock or a failing battery can look like a bad key

Common 2013 Escape key problems, and what we confirm by VIN

The problems we expect on this Escape are cracked key shells and worn buttons, dead key or remote batteries, a flashing PATS theft light when the chip is not being read, and worn ignition lock wafers on higher-mileage trucks. Many of these don't need a whole new key. Sometimes a new shell or battery handles it. If the ignition itself is worn, we'll tell you that before replacing a key that wasn't the problem.

We're open about what we verify and where. The chip data for the bladed key is verified. Which trims came with a proximity fob is something we check by VIN, not by guesswork, and we'd rather confirm than cut or program the wrong thing.

Wilshire Lock & Key has been in business since 1987 and serves 140 cities across Los Angeles and Ventura counties. One company handles your call from start to finish, with no dispatch middlemen, and David, the owner and lead technician, oversees the work. California requires locksmith companies to hold a BSIS LCO license, and you should ask any locksmith for it before they start. For other models, see our car key services, our Ford key pages, or the main Escape key page. You can also contact us to describe your situation.

Frequently asked questions

Does a 2013 Ford Escape have a transponder chip?

Yes. The standard bladed key carries an 80-bit 4D63 chip. The Escape's PATS anti-theft system has to read it before the engine will stay running.

Can you make a key if I've lost all of them?

Yes. An all-keys-lost job is possible on this Escape. We cut a new blade and program a new key through the OBD port. It takes more steps than a copy, but it doesn't require NASTF SDRM access.

Do I need my original key to get a duplicate?

For a duplicate, yes, an original key is needed. If you don't have one, we treat it as an all-keys-lost job instead.

My Escape cranks but won't start and the theft light is flashing. Is it the key?

It can be. A flashing PATS light with a cranking engine usually means the chip isn't being read. That can come from a damaged key, a failing battery in the key head, or a worn ignition. We check before replacing anything.

My Escape has a start button. Is the process the same?

No. Titanium and some SE trims use a smart proximity fob with push-button start, which is a different part and programming job. Give us the VIN and we'll confirm exactly what your Escape uses.

Is there a backup mechanical key?

Yes. The setup includes a mechanical backup key, so a dead remote battery won't leave you without a way to open the vehicle.

Do you come to me, or do I come to you?

Both. We have a storefront at 10740 Wilshire Blvd in Westwood and mobile vans. Call (213) 577-1366 and we'll work out which fits your situation.

We cover all these cities

Reviewed by David, Owner & Lead Technician, Wilshire Lock & Key — in the locksmith trade since 1987.

Last updated 2026-10-11.